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Day-by-Day
Itinerary: Provence
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Day of the
Week
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Description
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Typical
distances, in km
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Saturday
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ARRIVAL in NIMES.
The
trip meets tomorrow morning at breakfast, but most of us will arrive in Nimes today.
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Sunday
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ACROSS the CAMARGUE to ARLES.
We
assemble at our hotel in the morning. Those starting their journeys can practice
pedaling outside the hotel. Those arriving from the C_vennes,
or from another Blue Marble itinerary, may wish to visit Nimes a bit before
setting out.
Then it’s off to Arles. The ride is flat, but options add distance, hills, or
the historic Pont du Gard, a triple-deck Roman
aqueduct that inspired the modern freeway interchange. The villages you pass
offer narrow alleys leading to lovely places
shaded with sycamores. The faded pastel colors and lazy rythms
of the locals will put you in the mood for a pastis and a game of p_tanque (bocci) before you can say eh bien.
Arles itself would be worthy of a week’s stay. Search the town center for
images from your favorite Van Gogh. Marvel at the vestiges of the Roman
Empire. Visit the pretty caf_s and admire the view
of the Rh_ne down on the waterfront. Plot your
return…
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40 - 70 k
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Monday
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The ALPILLES.
A
more than full biking day. But how richly you will be rewarded for your
effort! Les Baux is a standard against which
citadel villages are measured. Not to mention the center of a lucious little wine appellation,
and the first place where bauxite was mined (hence the name). Have a glass of
the local elixir while you smelt some aluminum, or whatever one does to make
aluminum.
Nearby St.-R_my offers further remarkable proof of
the “civilization” in “Roman Civilization.”
But the real interest of the day is in the natural beauty of the Alpilles limestone ridge, lined with cypress trees and
offering views out to the Mediterranean. Glorious biking amongst the
vineyards and olive groves. Cavaillon, a market
town on the banks of the Durance, will be our home for two nights.
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60 k
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Tuesday
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The VAUCLUSE, AVIGNON.
Lots
of options for a baggage-free day: head into Avignon along the banks of the
Durance River to visit Provence’s most famous city. Seven popes resided here,
and left a magnificent palace behind to remember them by. The bridge of “French
101” fame offers itself for your dancing pleasure.
Or bike to the “Vaucluse fountain,” where a
subterranean river surges from a rock. On the way back, stop to visit the
charming caf_s which line the river in Ile-sur-la-Sorgue,
and perhaps tour an old olive oil mill.
Back home, wander through Cavaillon, a center of proven_al Judaism. The wholesale fruit market here is the
biggest in France, and the town has given its name to a yummy variant of
cantaloupe.
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15 - 60 k
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Wednesday
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VILLAGES of the LUBERON.
Today
we head into the Luberon, the area of Provence
popularized by Peter Mayle (in French, by Marcel Pagnol). Our route follows the hillside through lovely
stone villages, so different from the pastels of the plain. Opp_de-le-Vieux, M_nerbes, Bonnieux….
Lacoste is home to lots of cloth alligators, and
was once home to the Marquis de Sade. You'll understand his point of view
after biking up there.
Grape vines cover the hillsides, lavender graces the fields up top. A hilly
day, but the base distance is kept short, to allow you to enjoy the views and
the town squares along your route. Think “post card writing” – something
about the surroundings seems to put people in the mood. Our next two nights
are spent in an isolated country inn set in extraordinary surroundings.
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40 k
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Thursday
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The
MONTAGNE du LUBERON.
A day
to explore the mountain. Climb onto the ridge for a glorious cycle in the
national park, on a road closed to cars, with views to the Mediterranean. Or
go hiking on the secluded paths behind our hotel. Scout out a country
restaurant with a terrace for a leisurely lunch. A cycle path follows the old
rail line from Apt to Cereste, if you’re tired of
hills. Return home from wherever you have gone for a glass of ros_ and a country dinner.
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0 - 60 k
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Friday
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LOURMARIN MARKET, AIX-EN-PROVENCE.
We
ride out of the hills, and past the pretty proven_al market town of Lourmarin (an extraordinary selection of fresh produce,
flowers, honey….), on our way to Aix-en-Provence, a
beautiful university town. C_zanne’s inspiration is
ours as well, as we sip a sunset pastis in the
oft-painted decor of the Cours Mirabeau.
If your trip ends with this ride, it disbands upon arrival in Aix-en-Provence,
to much sniffling. An evening TGV, a late flight, or
an overnight train can take you to a variety of places. But Aix is beautiful.
We suggest that you stop the night, for a flight from Marseille, or a TGV to
Paris or direct to Charles de Gaulle airport, on Saturday.
You will also stop the night in Aix if you are headed on to Tuscany. In that
case, an all-day train ride will bring you to Pisa tomorrow.
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40 - 65 k
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Saturday
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TRAVEL DAY.
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onwards by train, plane...
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